From the United States to Canada, we made our way around the Bay of Fundy, where you can witness a daily tidal range up to 55 feet, the largest in the world.
We started in Lubec, Main and then crossed the Canadian border into New Brunswick and stayed at Fundy National Park. We were thorough, and not just because the bay has unique tides, but because the camping was spectacular.
Lubec, Maine is the easternmost town in the United States. Given this, everything we did was taglined with “easternmost.” We stayed at the easternmost campground, drank at the easternmost brewery and took a shoreline walk on the easternmost coast.
Lubec is small, located on a narrow peninsula, making most businesses and houses shoreline properties. We visited just weeks before peak season, when tourists are drawn in to check out the happening summer lives of the Humpback, Minke and Finback whales. For now, the vibe was chill and sleepy, like the town was trying to wake up after a long nap.
Fishing has been the main industry and appears to be on the decline with several damaged and abandoned docks. In town, a large proportion of houses and businesses were under construction or under going repairs. Additionally, we noticed several houses and prime spots for sale and yet still, the town was relentlessly appealing and uplifting.
It was spring and the flowers were in bloom and showcased on shoreline properties with artfully manicured yards. The “main drag” is short but filled with all the necessities, a seafood restaurant, tavern, brewery, coffee shop, deli and a dog clothing store called Wags and Wool.
On a rainy evening, we went into town for dinner at the Lubec Brewing Company. Not only is the beer list eclectic but they offer homemade pizza with crust made out of the spent grains from brewing. We shared a pizza and had a pint of beer, accompanied by a small band playing the fiddle and mandolin on the restaurant’s small stage.
We ventured outdoors for the remainder of the time, checking out the areas lighthouses in West Quoddy State Park and across the Bay of Fundy, to Campobello Island in New Brunswick, Canada. This was a big venture for us on our road trip, a new country.
Campobello Island is known in America as the summer residence of President Franklin D. Roosevelt. We took a super sped up tour of his 34 room cottage which had been staged as it might have once been. We likely missed some of the finer points as we were scared off by what seemed like an entire elementary school. In the typical way of children they descended on the historical site like crazed zombies in search of fresh meat.
We took a scenic drive out to Head Harbour Lightstation. Due to the time of day, we were unable to get up close due to the Bay of Fundy’s legendary tides. So instead we headed back, and made our final stop on our short-day trip to Canada at the Mulholland Point Lighthouse. From here, on Canadian soil, we looked back at Lubec, at the United States and the notion of countries and borders seemed misguided.
Fundy National Park, New Brunswick
We made it quickly across the Canadian border to continue our exploration of the Bay of Fundy. Here we would see more of the amazing 55 ft tidal range that takes place every day. I had been restless about traveling across the border with our dog Brody and trailer, but we made it through in a jiff.
We set out for our first camping spot in Canada located in Fundy National Park. Our visit throughout Canada coincided with the nations 150th birthday and as such park passes were free.
We were refreshed and delighted when we arrived. Though we love our nation’s national parks, we noticed immediately a more pristine and looked after camp, that was equipped with mandatory recycling at each trash station (Canada does this better). We would find this true at every national park we visited in Canada. The parks exceeded our expectations.
We took a day to play around the nearby Hopewell Rocks, a very popular site to witness the tidal range. In a day you can go from walking on the ocean floor to kayaking around the peculiar eroding sedimentary rocks. We followed the trip by watching the ocean rise at a local boat dock while the sun set. Matt was inspired to wake up early the next morning and watch it fall away again. I was inspired to sleep in and wait to see his craftsmanship when he returned.
We worked in a final coastline hike before heading off to Nova Scotia. Also worth noting, now that we were in Canada, Brody could join us on our adventures in the National Parks. I definitely understand the reason for the restriction in the US but felt a sense of relief that he wouldn’t be left behind on short hikes.